Tree Care

Tree Planting and Care Advice

We're delighted you've given our trees a forever home

Each tree in our nursery has been nurtured with huge amounts of love and hand care, and now it’s over to you. So, we’re keen to pass on our advice about what you can do to help your trees settle in, establish well, and have the best possible chance of success for the long term.

Below is our advice for planting and ongoing care of your trees…

Handling and Preparing Your Tree

Whenever possible, please handle your tree by the rootball rather than the stems. The bark can be soft and easily damaged, especially when you are moving trees around. Never tie anything to the stems to lift or move the tree, always move it by the rootball.

If we’ve supplied you with a rootballed tree, please leave the wire and hessian in place when you plant it. It’s vital you leave these in place as they keep the roots intact and will naturally biodegrade over time. Please untie any string from the canopy before planting as it can be tricky to reach once the tree is in situ.

Preparing the Hole

Mark out the size of the rootball and dig the hole to roughly the same dimensions. A snug fit will make staking easier and keep the tree secure. There’s no need to add compost. We believe it’s best for trees to adjust to the soil in their new environment straight away, as their roots will eventually reach and grow into it.

Planting Your Tree

When planting our rootball trees, it’s imperative to retain the wire and hessian. These materials, deliberately wrapped for root protection, will naturally decompose. Premature removal risks rootball breakage and fine root loss, jeopardizing the tree’s survival.

Handle the tree by the rootball, steering clear of the stem to prevent any damage during planting.

Carefully place the rootball into the prepared hole, ensuring it doesn’t sit too deep. The breathing roots, located just beneath the surface, must remain close to ground level. If the tree is planted too deeply, these essential roots won’t get the air they need, which can lead to suffocation and even death.

Your vigilant adherence to these details ensures the optimal conditions for the tree’s growth and long-term health. Please do not remove the wire or hessian.

After backfilling the hole with soil, make a small dam wall (sump) approximately 5cm high, around the edge of the rootball. This will create the perfect watering structure for the following summer, allowing the water to drain down through the rootball rather than running away from the tree.

Create a Watering Sump

After backfilling the hole with soil, make a small dam wall (sump) approximately 5cm high, around the edge of the rootball. This will create the perfect watering structure for the following summer, allowing the water to drain down through the rootball rather than running away from the tree.

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Watering Sump Video

Watch this video for a demonstration of thetechnique we use to create a watering sump

Watering Frequency

Watering is often overlooked, but it is the most important factor in helping a newly planted tree establish and thrive.

For the first two years, we recommend you ensure the rootball doesn’t completely dry out, but balance this with not watering it too much. This approach encourages the roots to grow outwards in search of their own moisture which is vital for promoting a resilient root system.

As soon as your tree is planted, fill the water sump to the top. This deep soak helps settle the soil, fill in any air pockets, and ensures moisture reaches the roots. After this initial watering, we recommend waiting until the leaves emerge before watering again (springtime), however evergreen trees may need some water during dry spells in Winter.

When the warmer, drier months arrive (May to September), begin a regular watering routine. Depending on the size of your tree, give it 1–2 buckets of water three times a week to keep the rootball consistently hydrated. It is crucial to keep this consistent throughout the tree’s first summer even if it rains.

As the tree becomes established, you can gradually reduce how often you water. In its second summer only water during a very dry spell, and by the third summer there should be no need to provide extra water.

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Watering Tips Video

Watch this video created by our founder Philip to explain this thoughts on watering in more detail

Stake Your Tree

Until the tree’s roots are strong enough to anchor it securely, we recommend staking to prevent it from tipping over in the wind. This can be done using one, two, or three above-ground stakes. Only tie the stake to one of the stems. And be sure the tree’s stems never touch the stakes directly, as this can create damaging open wounds in the bark.

Watch this video for a detailed demonstration >>

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Smaller Trees

One stake should suffice. To prevent damage to the bark place the stake at a 45 degree angle which will minimise contact between the stake and the bark. Ensure there is sufficient room for a spacer between the trunk and the stake to stop the bark from rubbing against the stake.

Larger Trees

Erect two stakes, either side of the tree with a cross bar attached to each stake. Using a spacer, attach the tree to the cross bar and secure with elasticated ties.

Large trees on very exposed sites

Erect three stakes in a triangle around the tree. Secure with straps from each stake around the trunk of the tree.

Stake Removal

Stakes should always be removed after the second year. Stakes are only there in order for the tree to establish itself in the ground and should be removed once there are sufficient roots to keep it upright. The straps and ties can be detrimental to the health of the tree if left on as they can become embedded in the bark, eventually ringbarking the tree and resulting in its death.

'Invisible' Staking

For an aesthetically pleasing result, particularly suitable for show gardens, consider this more labour-intensive yet visually rewarding tree care technique.

To execute, erect three stakes in a close triangle near the rootball, driving them deep into undisturbed soil below. Ensure the stakes penetrate soil below the rootball level for secure anchoring.
Tie a strap in a triangle over the rootball, securing the tree thoroughly. Cut stakes at ground level and cover with soil for a seamless, visually appealing finish. This method, though demanding, provides an elegant solution, especially for showcase gardens

Phyllyrea angustifolia NWT Product photos 25 26 7

Mulching Matters

After planting, cover the rootball area with a layer of well rotted coarse bark mulch, approximately 3–4cm deep.

Mulch plays a vital role in helping your tree thrive. It locks in moisture by slowing down evaporation and gradually releases nutrients back into the soil. As it breaks down, it encourages earthworms to draw these nutrients deeper into the ground keeping the rootball nourished and sufficiently moist.

Drought Stress: How to Spot the Signs

While trees can survive short spells of drought, prolonged periods can make them susceptible to insects and diseases. Signs of stress are yellowing of the leaves and wilting of the soft new growth and spotting these signs early is vital to prevent deformed growth, and even death.

Our Guarantee

We guarantee our trees will arrive in good condition and that the rootballed trees will come into leaf in spring. The rest is over to you!

Their successful establishment and long-term health depend on the care they receive and the conditions they’re planted in. Once they leave our nursery, this part of the journey is in your hands. But we’re confident that with your gentle care and attention your tree will thrive for years to come.